Station 4 Restaurant: A southwest trendsetter garnishing the DC waterfront

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Photos:  Demarcus Davis/DC Spotlight Newspaper



February 1, 2012
Alex Barron
Restaurant Critic
Bon Appetit

Aside from the occasional trip to the waterfront or the Department of Motor Vehicles, there aren’t many reasons for the average District resident to venture into the neighborhoods of southwest Washington, D.C. The temporary closing of ArenaStage, which lasted for nearly three years, made the area even less of a draw than usual.  Recently, with the reopening of the theater — now the second largest performing arts center in DC, with the exception of the Kennedy Center — came the promise of a renaissance in this most obscure of the four quadrants.

The debut of the impressive new theater in October 2010 seemed to invite new restaurants to feed and, hopefully, to feed off of the patrons who were sure to flood the area. Station 4 restaurant, which opened last June only ablock away from Arena Stage, represents the first serious attempt to create a “theater culture” out of what could otherwise seem like a remote, free-standing theater. Trendy and tasty, without being too slick for its own good, it currently holds the crown for the best pre-theater diningoption.

Admittedly, the stretch of M Street SW surrounding the Waterfront metro doesn’t look much like restaurant row yet, and the sterile office building across the street from Whole Foods would appear to be an unlikely location for the area’s newest rising star. However, the space inside is more like it, with muted yellow and black decor, pillars of various interesting textures and gauzy animal print curtains.

The menu categorizes the food as “Modern American,” but with Venezuelan-born, Mexican-educated Chef Orlando Amaro at the helm, diners should not be surprised to find the occasional reference to Amaro’s Latin roots. The Charred Octopus ($13), a meaty tentacle served in Potato confit, garlic aioli, and tomato-feta tartar, is one such example. Hearty appetizers abound on Amaro’s menu. The Tuna-Salmon Tartare ($13) combines the tenderness of the fish with crispy wonton and crunchy apple. The Pork Belly Salad ($13) pairs fresh endive with the most succulent part of the pig.

Amaro’s Italian background — his grandmother was an Italian pastry chef — is on display for the Duck Confit Manicotti ($21). Filled with cipollini onions, Manchego cheese and, yes, pieces of soft, savory duck, this stuffed pasta is worth the splurge; it is one of the shining stars of the menu. The Jumbo Blue Crab Cake ($24), actually shaped more like a “crab log,” sits atop a bed of sweet corn emulsion, and is bound to keep the locals happy.

Station 4, so named because it marks the fourth major endeavor by restaurateur Med Lahlo (who also owns Tunnicliff’s Tavern, Stoney’s and Ulah Bistro), has the unique potential to initiate the growth of a neighborhood. As if in recognition of this fact, it offers special prices on Mondays, in honor of “Neighborhood Appreciation Day.” Prix fixe menus for theater-goers are also available. Southwest may still be in its development stages, but if it ever gets where it’s going, it just might have Station 4 to thank.

 

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DC Spotlight Restaurant Critic

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