June 1, 2013
Alex Barron
Restaurant Critic
Bon Appetit
Amid the housing developments and strip malls that cover large swaths of Montgomery 
County — as well of much of the Washington, D.C. suburbs – are locations that look more than twenty years old and can seem elusive. This dearth of history makes Old Angler’s Inn a rarity. Built in 1860 to serve those traveling to and from the nation’s capital via the C & O Canal, the Inn, along with its adjacent garden, has a rustic elegance seldom seen in these parts. Old Angler’s Inn embraces its history.
The interior of the inn itself is “unapologetically” old-fashioned: nineteenth century paintings of dramatic landscapes cover many of the wood-paneled walls, and in the winter, a fireplace crackles. But during the spring and summer, the garden is the more popular spot. Couples – generally on the mature side, but increasingly of a variety of ages – situate themselves at tables surrounding a stone fountain. The scene looks like a Gilded Age fantasy – and indeed Teddy Roosevelt and his entourage once took respites at the inn, between hunting and fishing trips.
History is one of the Inn’s major selling points, but as head chef Nick Palermo well knows, it should never be the main event. Perhaps in an effort to shake the dust off of a restaurant that was, until recently, regarded by many as more of a historical relic than a serious modern dining option, the Inn hired Palermo in 2011. Having previously worked at the ultra-chic CityZen, located in the Mandarin Hotel in downtown, Palermo promised to inject new life into the Old Inn.
In keeping with the push towards modernization, a new sign reads, “New Angler’s Inn,” (though officially, the establishment still retains its old name), and the new menu lists such varied fare as coconut milk mussels, waygu carpaccio and Spanish octopus among its offerings. While any of these items would seem commonplace at many restaurants, they represent a major departure for a place trying to shake its “steak and potatoes” reputation.
The classics here are as good as ever. As its name would suggest, Old Angler’s Inn serves some of the tastiest seafood in town. The Prince Edward Island Mussels ($21 for six) are cold and fresh. The Grilled Yellow Fin Tuna ($30), served on a medley of peas, garbanzo beans and mushrooms, is perfectly crisp on the outside and red on the inside. The Colorado Lamb Loin ($39), though pricey, is sweet, melting, and tender, accompanied by a colorful blend of arugula, tomatoes and Kalamata olives.
For dessert, Palermo serves up a creamy Classic Crème Brulee ($8), encased in a 
crispy top layer. Especially when accompanied by a cappuccino, it is hard to imagine a more satisfying conclusion to a meal. As is to be expected of a spot, which despite its makeover, remains decidedly “old school,” the bar possesses an impressive collection of liquors. The wine list contains some interesting, reasonably priced options, and Scotch drinkers will be pleased with the selection. For those in the know – and over the years, the Inn has certainly collected its share of diehard followers – Palermo offers a “secret” tasting menu, full of whatever delicacies happen to be in season. Offerings and prices vary from week to week and sometimes even from day to day. So it’s duly noted that on weekends, when business picks up, some may not be available. But on slower nights, the tasting menu (with optional wine pairings) serves as an ideal tour through the kitchen of the revamped inn.
Boasting a lively atmosphere, in spite of its semi-secluded location, Old Angler’s Inn frequently finds itself included on lists of the District’s most romantic restaurants. Those same attributes suggest that it also belongs on any list of the city’s best summer restaurants. Yet, as pleasant as the atmosphere is, as long as Palermo is in charge, the spotlight at Old Angler’s Inn is focused squarely on the food.
Photos: Courtesy Old Angler’s Inn
Old Angler’s Inn
10801 MacArthur Blvd
Potomac, MD 20854
(301) 365-2425
www.oldanglersinn.com
