November 1, 2013
Alex Barron
Restaurant Critic
Bon Appetit
Restaurant real estate doesn’t get much better than the intersection of 8th and F Street in the corner of a large building devoted mostly to Penn Quarter’s popular Spy Museum. In addition to pulling in tourists from the museum itself, this prime spot is highly visible and accessible to Capitals and Wizards fans, theater-goers, and legions of professionals who work in the neighborhood. So, it should come as no surprise that the space was in high demand when its former occupant, the sleek and atmospheric Zola, closed its doors almost a year and a half ago. Who could have been more appropriate to snatch it up than Ashok Bajaj, whose hits – Rasika, Bibiana and 701 among them – are among the most popular in the District? The addition of this latest piece of the Bajaj Empire – called 
NoPa (North of Pennsylvania) – means that the rich get richer. But then again, so do the denizens of Penn Quarter, who suddenly have a solid place for brunch in an area that boasts relatively few options.
Aside from its desirable address, NoPa boasts a gorgeous interior space. Its exposed brick and framed wall hangings give it an atmosphere akin to a private art gallery. Its tall windows offer a view of F Street, which bustles with crowds in front of the National Portrait Gallery. Where Zola was mysterious and moody, NoPa uses the same space to a much brighter effect. Although the dining room seems naturally built for brunch, executive chef Greg McCarty added it to the restaurant’s offerings only recently, allowing the kitchen to first master the dinner menu. The wait seems to have paid off, as McCarty works together with pastry chef Jemil Gadea — formerly of Bajaj’s Italian Osteria, Bibiana — to produce an abundance of solid options.
Coffee with brunch is often taken for granted, but NoPa serves up a head-turning cup (La Colombe Torrefaction, imported from Colombia by way of Philadelphia). A French-pressed brew is a fitting companion for the Pastry Basket ($8), featuring an inspired bananas Foster muffin, a buttery brioche and a sweet and crumbly piece of coffee cake, stuffed with fresh plums. Lentil Soup ($9), which some may not associate with brunch, is a creamy blend, poured over cubes of granny smith apples and cashews right at the table.
One of Gadea’s finest achievements is the bialy, a Polish 
cousin of the bagel, which took the pastry chef months to perfect. (His research involved ordering dozens of them from Kossar’s Manhattan’s legendary bialy emporium.) Gadea’s version is a thick, bready discus, topped with caramelized onions. The combination is so flavorful that it can be consumed with or without the chopped capers and fresh smoked salmon that accompany it.
Representing the lunch side of brunch is the Lobster and Paprika Egg Salad Sandwich ($16), a riff on a traditional lobster roll, in which meaty chunks of lobster and egg overflow from between two buttery pieces of thick toast. The flavorful Frittata ($12) blends chorizo, arugula and tomato, while still retaining a lighter than anticipated texture. The Croque Monsieur ($12), on the other hand, is a decadent pile of savory ham and melted Gruyere, topped with a fried egg, just for good measure. For breakfast traditionalists, the French To
ast ($12) is dotted with caramelized bananas, and glazed with a sweet and fruity mango sauce. The Doughnette Sampler ($9), a plate of nine mini-donuts, which includes gooey cinnamon buns and coconut encrusted bites, is enough to give pause to those who wouldn’t ordinarily think to order dessert with their brunch.
For a lazy, boozy start to the day, the Champagne Brunch Special ($30 for any two courses and bottomless mimosas or sparkling wine) is a good route. Original cocktails also flow freely, including the Barstow to Vegas ($8), a crisp, cilantro-infused play on a margarita.
Brunch is served every Sunday from 11 to 3 p.m., and as long as the mimosas keep coming, there are surely many worse ways to spend a last few hours of freedom before heading back to work on Monday.
