October 2, 2015
Alex Barron
Restaurant Critic
Bon Appetit
As downtown Bethesda continues to grow, it keeps topping itself with one stellar restaurant after another. The same might be said of Jeff Tunks’ rapidly expanding empire. Tunks, whose hits include DC Coast, Acadiana, Tap and Shake and Penn Commons, has proven himself a versatile chef and restaurateur. Still, he has earned most of his fame for his seafood, which takes center stage at his two most acclaimed restaurants: DC Coast and PassionFish. Now, the latter – far and away, the best dining spot in Reston – has a sequel in Bethesda, and Tunks, along with partners David Wizenberg and Gus DiMillo, hopes that Maryland suburbanites will take to his team’s elegant, flavorful preparations in the way that their Virginian counterparts have for years.
While the original PassionFish, which opened in 2008, has the vibe and, seemingly, the space of a luxury ocean liner, PassionFish Bethesda has a sleeker look. Its seating capacity – roughly 180 – is also smaller than that of its older sibling, but its atmosphere is just as lively. A wrap-around bar sits in the middle of the action. One side is flanked by large glass doors that open to allow patrons to spill out onto a roomy deck when the weather is nice. (On a recent visit, the deck provided not only a pleasant spot for a cocktail, but also an excellent vantage point from which to view an orange and fuchsia sun descending over the Barnes and Noble across the street.)
The Bethesda location, which opened in mid-September, offers a menu almost identical to that of its older sibling. The sushi menu, however, features several original rolls introduced by sushi chef Jonathan Goh, working in his first D.C. restaurant after stints in Avon, Colorado and in Miami. Goh is not afraid to introduce pungent flavors, not typically found in sushi. The “K Pop” ($14) is spiced up with a dash of kimchi sauce and the “Volcano” ($15) is layered with boursin cheese, a lighter variation on typical cream cheese.
While Tunks remains active behind the scenes, he hands control of the kitchen over to his longtime collaborator Chris Clime. A veteran of PassionFish Reston and TenhPenh (now closed), Clime shares Tunks’ passion for fresh seafood. His menu boasts a wealth of intriguing appetizers from the Spicy Ahi Tuna Tartare ($14), spread on crispy wonton wafers for a satisfying crunch, to the Peruvian Style Ceviche ($13), saturated with a sharp, but not overly acidic blend of lemon and cilantro. Lobster Bruschetta, a chunk of tender lobster meat and a dollop of creamy burrata cheese on a crunchy piece of toast, just might be the most perfect bite on a menu full of contenders. Purists will be pleased with the ample raw bar options. Clime takes care to bring in the freshest lobster, clams, prawns and crabmeat, and is happy to let them simply speak for themselves.
Tunks’ restaurants have never shied away from exotic flavors and the dinner menu will feature many of the Asian, Mediterranean and Latin-inspired dishes that first put Tunks on the map. The Whole Crispy Flounder ($36), flash-fried and sprinkled with piquant tamarinds and refreshing cucumber slices, is a show-stopper. And the Chinese Style Smoke Lobster (Market Price), already a hit a D.C. Coast, offers an original sweet and sour alternative to the standard lemon and a pat of butter you might see elsewhere. The kitchen also prepares fish to order. As for as its opening, it offered twelve fish options, each of which could be prepared in a variety of different styles and with one of six different sauces.
Located at the heart of an area heavy with pedestrians, PassionFish Bethesda is likely to receive plenty of foot traffic. It’s easy to imagine that crowds will be lured in, especially on pleasant evenings, by the festive scene on the outside decks. But Tunks and company have learned that nothing keeps the crowds coming back like fresh seafood.
